Performance and AWD Update Project for the 4G

93-96 Colt / Summit / Mirage / Lancer.

Disclaimer: all technical information in these pages is believed to be correct to the best of my knowledge. Some is based on specifications obtained from third parties, Chrysler or Mitsubishi workshop manuals, or otherwise from work I have verified or done myself. No liability or warranty is assumed or offered, and you use it all at totally your own risk.


If you have a 4th generation 93-96 Mirage / Colt / Lancer / Summit (2-door coupe or 4-door sedan), and WANT more performance, then there's no substitute for cc's.

Perhaps your idea is rebuild / restore your 4G to an improved specification, while maintaining acceptable fuel economy.

Or perhaps you just like tinkering with automotive parts because you can.

Most Colt / Summit models came with the 87hp 1.5L 4G15 SOHC-12v engine, and a very few with the 113hp 1.8L SOHC-16v 4G93 that's fitted to the Mirage.

"Why do an engine swap " is a frequently asked question. Let's answer that by asking what modifications (and cost) would be required to a 4G15 SOHC-12v engine to boost the power to 135 hp from 87 hp, and increase torque to 125 ft-lb from 90 ft-lbs, or put another way, boost power 50% and torque around 42%.

So for around C$2500, you might get another 20-25 hp, and reduced off the line performance, because the power and torque band is now higher.

Another option is an engine management computer and a turbo system, around $2500 for about 150hp and maybe 140 ft-lbs of torque. The standard 4G F5M21 gearbox is inadequate for this level of performance. No suspension or braking updates are included in this price: they are essential and adds another $2000 or so.

In other words, it's just not worth spending big chunks of money on a 4G15, when there's a better way to get quite a bit more performance for less money.

Another question that often arises is "Can a 1G / 2G Talon 4G63 Turbo be installed in a 97-03 5th generation Lancer?" This depends on the original engine and transmission. If you have a a F5M2x or F5M3x series transmission in your car, the engine is on the car LHS. If your car is 7-2002 and later, you have the F5M4x series transmission, and its 4G93 or 4G94 engine is fitted to the RHS of the car. Engines always rotate in the same direction (clockwise when viewed from the front pulley), and hence the F5M4x series transmissions have one less transfer shaft internally.

So, using an Eclipse / Talon 4G63T with an F5M4x transmission is possible but not practical, because the intake and exhaust manifolds are on the opposite sides compared to the original engine. Retrofitting a complete Talon engine and transmission is of course possible, but the level of modification required is extreme. You would need to import a recent (and expensive) 2003 4G63 from Japan. There's little point unless you want a turbo engine, as the 4G94 SOHC has about the same performance as the 4G63 DOHC.

This site describes in exhaustive (sometimes even excruciating) detail what's required to install a 135hp 2.0L 4G63 DOHC-16v non-turbo engine. There's some notes on installing the turbo 4G63. While the work is mostly the same, installing a turbo engine involves significantly more cutting of the body, new metal part fabrication and relocation of a number of engine bay components.




What's a Summit GTX? A Summit ES with brake and suspension upgrades, and engine replacement.

GTX: 4x4.50" hubs, 250x24mm front disks, 266x10mm rear disks, KYB GR2 struts, 30% uprated springs.

GTX 16v DOHC: GTX plus 4G63 DOHC 135hp

GSR 16v DOHC: GTX plus 4G63T DOHC 195hp turbo. 5x4.50" hubs, 275x24mm front disks,

GSX 16v DOHC: GSR + AWD conversion.

In summary, this is what's required, IN ORDER.

  1. ABSOLUTELY upgrade the suspension: bushes, shocks and springs. Cost is about C$1200.

  2. ABSOLUTELY upgrade the brakes, using available Mitsubishi parts. Cost is around C$1000-1600, depending on whether you get used or reconditioned parts. You'll need new wheel bearing and seals, front hubs, rotors, e-brake cables and rear hubs, and custom caliper adapter brackets.

  3. Replace the wheels and tires. Cost not less than $1000, being 205/50R15 or 205/50R16 tires, about $600, acquiring and refinishing Mitsubishi alloy wheels (Eagle 2000 4 stud 6.0J15 or Talon 5 stud 6.0J16), about $400.

  4. Replace the 1.5L engine with the 2.0L 4G63 DOHC 16v , preferably rebuilt or adequately reconditioned. Cost perhaps $2000.

  5. Replace the radiator and exhaust system. Add another $1000.

  6. Replace the transmission and axles with the relevent Talon parts. i.e. F5M22 or F5M33 transmission.

  7. Expect to spend in the order of C$5000 (including buying a reasonable '93 or '94) to complete the project properly, more if you rebuild the engine and transmission, and more again if you want a turbo engine. Add a LOT more money (maybe double) if you pay someone else to do the work, but after all that's not point, is it?

  8. Expect the job to take in the order of 100 hours if you want to do the job properly, in a home workshop. Bear in mind that maybe 60 of those hours will be planning, taking bits off, cleaning / painting / reconditioning, and putting it all back together again, often several times.

Is it worth it? Certainly! The normally aspirated Talon 4G63 DOHC is rated at 135hp, 125ft-lbs of torque when new, up from the 87hp, 90 ft-lbs of the 4G15 when new. Car performance with this engine is excellent (0-100kph in about 10 seconds), but absolutely requires a decent brakes kit. A 4G63T turbo engine conversion (195hp and 205 ft-lbs or more) would require more work to the brakes and suspension, and would do 0-100kph in about 6 seconds, and the quarter mile in around 15.7 seconds.

Still want to do this? Then read on ...


What you need before you start

If you don't have a decently equipped home workshop and available work area, then don't even think about starting this project, unless you have enough cash to pay a garage to do the work for you.

You'll need a decent set of 1/2" drive metric sockets and a selection of metric wrenches.

An angle grinder with metal cutting disks and wire brush attatchments.

A work bench with a four inch or bigger vice. A small drill press is VERY useful. Drills, and a set of metric taps, esspecially M6, M8-1.00, M10-1.25, and M12-1.25. These are essential and are used to clean out bolt holes of dirt and rust, as well as fabricate a variety of special brackets. You'll need access to a MIG welder or a good relationship with a local welding shop.

If you don't have a medium size washing bin with a pump and filter, get one. They cost about C$200 plus about 25 liters of Varsol, and are worth every penny for the convenience to be able properly and safely clean any part.

A 60-80W soldering iron and a multimeter.


Plan, plan, plan !

See my old website for the details of the sort of stuff you have to consider. There's no substitute for working out what has to be done, before you start taking pieces off. Poor planning always results in massive duplication of effort and significantly greater expense. This can be very irritating, esspecially if it involves removing the engine and transmission, as this is something you really want to do once only.



This is intentionally the project starting point. Far too many guys (engine swaps are 99.99% a guy thing ...) concentrate on their desire for more performance, and ignore the handling and braking until afterwards. Sure, brakes and suspension doesn't look like much, but even if you never do the engine swap, you'll have a better handling and stopping car.

With the higher performance capability of a 4G63, the standard suspension is barely adequate, and frankly, with the 4G63T, dangerously inadequate.

Suspension bushes are made from synthetic rubber because its cheap, and they last about three years before they become soft and pliable. This means that the new car feel disappears, and the handling suffers, often quite dramatically. The solution is to replace the rubber parts with a denser yet still pliable material called polyurethane. These bushes will usually last the life of the car, and while they usually allow in more road noise, the handling will be improved. In addition, the Lancer coupe (and the sedan for that matter) are a soft handling shopping cart, and this has to be corrected.

Front suspension:

Replace the insulator bearings at the top of the strut with either standard or Ralliart parts. These look identical, but the Ralliart part has much harder rubber, and are absolutely worth the extra money (about $120 each, vs $40 for the standard part).

The lower control arm front bush is not an available part from Chrysler / Mitsubishi, so an aftermarket bush is required. The large rear bush takes the braking and bump loads, and is the main culprit for suspension movement and wheel flap. The standard part is OK, but will last the usual two to three years. The better solution is either Ralliart or aftermarket parts.

Replace the springs with approximately 30% uprated units. With the extra weight of the 4G63 (F5M22/33 FWD transmissions are all about the same weight), the standard front springs are really a bit soft, but you can get away with them for a WHILE if you fit decent shocks. Replacing the rear springs with uprated units plus shocks makes a huge difference to the feel of the car, and stops all the rear end bounce and wiggle.

If you really must lower the car, you should consider 40mm as the maximum. Note that there are two, possibly three, front spring diameters depending on the local market. In USA/Canada, front springs are 148mm diameter, but in Australia, they are 160mm or 172mm. Rear springs are the same diameter (95mm) in USA/Canada and Australia.

Replace the struts with what ever you can afford, starting with KYB GR2's, or if you can afford them, Koni Sport adjustables. Don't even consider Monroe Sensatrac's, as these are not up to the loads of bigger wheels and stronger springs.

Koni list the #8610-1343 Sport for the front of the 93-02 Mirage (ie the same part for all variants), and these fit into the original strut 45mm tube, compared to the 50mm tube used in the 90-94 Eclipse/Talon. Koni list the #8641-1231 Sport for the front of the 90-94 Eclipse AWD, and this is the same length, but a bigger diameter than the Mirage part.

This is a case of bigger is better, as the larger diameter shock tube means that the shock will heat up less, and last longer.

There are two simple options in adapting Eclipse / Talon struts. In both cases you need a set of 25mm or 30mm lowered 90-94 Eclipse AWD springs (also a higher spring rate) to offset the 25mm higher position of the spring cup. The Eclipse upper spring seat is used with the Colt (or Ralliart) insulator. The problem with e.g. Eibach lowered springs is that they are VERY hard, and makes the car ride like a truck.

  1. Use the KYB GR2 or the adjustable AGX replacement strut.

  2. Use Koni Sport inserts in the Eclipse strut assembly. The top of the strut tube has to be cut off, and a 10mm hole drilled in the base of the tube to secure the insert. Note here that Koni require the KYB branded strut tubes, because the Mitsubishi strut tubes are slightly smaller. You CAN press a Koni insert into a Mitsubishi tube, but you will NEVER, EVER, NO MATTER HOW HARD YOU TRY, get it out again. Note that the Expo / Summit Wagon vans use the same KYB strut tube.


Alternatively with more work, you can use the standard AWD Expo front springs or AWD Turbo front springs (which have a usefully higher spring rates than the original Colt springs, 137 and 146 lbs/in respectively) plus some welding of the strut tube. In the diagram, left, the modification is shown. Any welding shop could do the whole job. The main issue is to lower the spring cup 25mm so the ride height is correct. Note that it is not recommended to try this modification on standard struts as you risk damaging the strut operation.

If you use the standard Colt knuckles, then the upper knuckle/strut mounting bolt hole does not have to be enlarged to fit a camber-adjuster bolt.

If you use the modified Eclipse or Expo knuckles with the big 80mm bearings (highly recommended), then you have to modify the mounting bolt hole.

Several problems arise here. The main one is that old struts and top spring seats tend to be rusty, and these have to be sandblasted or otherwise cleaned or replaced before welding, and appropriately painted (epoxy or powder coat) afterwards.


The most expensive, but also the most effective, is to replace the complete strut tube assembly with an adjustable ride height strut tube assembly.

The standard or lowered AWD springs are used, or else the spring cup is deleted and 63.5mm (standard 2.5") coilover springs used instead.



A bracket for the brake hose has to be fabricated (See left), and attatches to the front side of the strut / knuckle M12 bolts. You use the Talon upper spring seat, and the Colt insulator bearing. The bracket is symetric so can be used on both left and right sides.







Its also necessary to be able to adjust the camber. There are cam bolt kits available, but these have the annoying habit of working loose, and changing camber as you drive. The solution is to drill out the strut top bolt hole to 19mm from 12mm, and fit a machined offset step washer (one each side of the strut). Camber (and castor) adjustment is then done at the top of the strut by slotting the insulator holes about 10mm. What this all does is make the Expo / Eclipse knuckle and strut very close geomerically to the original Colt knuckle and strut.

Add the optional front sway bar, if not already fitted. These are fitted to most of the automatic models, and require the lower control arms with link connector eyes.

Rear Suspension:

Replace at least the main trailing arm pivot bush with the Ralliart part (see below), or fill the standard bush with pourable polyurethane, or get an aftermarket part, see the Table below. The standard bush has two slots that allow up to 40mm of fore-aft movement. The Ralliart part is solid and uses denser (ie harder) polyurethane.

Replace the springs with approximately 30% uprated units. If you really must lower the car, you should consider 40mm as the maximum.

Replace the struts with what ever you can afford, starting with KYB GR2's. Monroe Sensatrac's aren't up to the job with the greater weight of the bigger wheels and tires, but are OK for the standard parts. It may also be possible to use the 91 AWD Talon rear shocks (very similar, but with larger diameter strut tube and springs) and lowered springs, but I have not tried this to check for clearance.

Here's some notes on the rear suspension bushes.

Suspension Part

Qty Per Side

Standard Mitsubishi Part#


 Australian -made Nolathane Part#

Trailing Arm front bush




Upper Control Arm - inner

  - outer



MB ?

Benefits from boxing the pressed steel U-section



Camber Control Arm - inner

  - outer


Adjuster bolt





full L and R assemblies only : MB809222 , MB809223


Adjuster bolt is commonly rusted in and has to be cut out.



Note these are the same as the Upper Control Arm

Lower Control Arm (both)



Benefits from boxing the pressed steel U-section



Brakes, Wheels and Tires

These are related, and you need to decide now whether you want good (250x24mm front disks, single piston calipers and 14" wheels) or really good (275x24mm front disks and twin piston calipers) brakes. If you have any intention at all of putting in a turbo engine, then you need the really good option, which requires 15" or 16" wheels.


Here's the 275mm front disks and twin port calipers. Shocks are KYB GR2's.

Note that on the rear, due to the design of the trailing arm, the widest wheel with a standard Mitsubishi 46mm offset is 6.0 inches, or else the tire will rub. If you really want to use 6.5 or 7.0 inch rims, the offset will have to be reduced accordingly, and depending on the tire size, you may have to pull the wheel arch out a few mm.



So, we are finally at the stage of deciding the engine. This really comes down to how much money you have. Options are, in order of performance

4G62 DOHC-16v 1.8L n/a (Hyundai Elantra) ... but why bother when you can use the 2.0L 4G63

4G63 DOHC-16v 2.0L n/a (Eagle Talon). This is the easiest, with a minimum of extra fabrication and no cutting of any bodywork. Make sure you get the 1G engine with the 6 bolt flywheel.

4G93T DOHC-16v 1.8L turbo (JDM Lancer GSR). Hard to find, expensive and getting parts is a problem in North America. Don't bother!

4G63T DOHC-16v 2.0L turbo (1G Talon / Eclipse). Most bang for the buck, but requires significant front end body mods related to fitting the intercooler, oil cooler and relocating the radiator fans. Either you fit the side mount intercooler and move the battery, or fit an intercooler in front of the radiator, and have to do a lot of piping. There not much room, but it can be done, see the picture below. Note that the you want the earlier 1G Talon engine with the 6-bolt flywheel, as these are stronger and don't have a design flaw that often causes crankwalk in the 2G Talon / Eclipse.

There's also some differences in the manual and automatic transmission engines (1991 models at least), as follows:

Manual Transmisson

Automatic Transmission

Cam - intake lobe height



  - exhaust lobe height



Turbo + boost

TD05-14B, 6-11 psi

TD04-13B, 5-10psi




Fuel pressure

approx 27 psi

approx 33 psi

This means that the 4G63T from an automatic has a bit less performance than the engine from the manual transmission model. Of course, a lot of people replace the turbo with a 16B and bigger injectors.

4G64 SOHC-16v 2.4L (Expo wagons and Galant). Nice torquey engine that revs and breathes well, and actually has slightly more torque than the n/a 4G63 DOHC. It does not LOOK as good as a DOHC in the engine bay however (see below), and there's not much in the way of performance parts available except air intakes and maybe headers (for the Galant).

4G64T DOHC 2.4L turbo. Uultimate performance, but the 2.4 has to be created out of bits of several engines. 300+ hp is possible, but this should be considered for non-street use only.

4G63T installed in a right hand drive (see the RHS brake master cylinder and LHS windscreen washer bottle) car. Note that the a/c fan is not present, and an aftermarket intercooler is fitted in front of the radiator, on the two vertical brackets just visible in front of each side of the radiator. This leaves the battery in the standard position. In LH drive cars, the battery can be moved up next to the strut tower if the windscreen washer bottle is reshaped. In the RH drive car above, the battery would likely have to be moved into the trunk.


What ever engine you choose, unless you have seen and heard it running in the donor car (which you almost certainly won't if you buy from a wrecker), its essential to do some necessary initial maintenance BEFORE you put the engine in the car, as follows:

If you purchased a high mileage engine with the intent of completely rebuilding, expect to spend $1000-1500 for the various parts, gasket kits and machining. This is assuming that you can reassemble the engine youself.

At the very least, put in new belts unless you want to risk bending all the inlet valves when the belt jumps teeth or breaks. Here's some pix showing how its possible to get the oil pump balance shaft 120 or 240 degrees out of phase and have an engine that vibrates. The yellow paint indicates the bolt has been torqued to spec.

Here's all the belts aligned at TDC. Note the balance sprocket on the left, and the oil pump sprocket on the right.







After rotating the crank 1 turn, we are back at TDC (actually the top of the #1 exhaust stroke) and the balance sprocket is again aligned. The oil pump sprocket is now 120 degrees out of phase.







After rotating the crank 2 turns, we are back at TDC (actually the top of the #1 compression stroke) and the balance sprocket is again aligned. The oil pump sprocket is now 240 degrees out of phase.

What often happens is that a sloppy or ignorant mechanic aligns the belts and gets the oil pump wrong. The engine runs but it vibrates or feels rough and does not seem as powerful. There's often a rattle at about 2500 rpm.





With a 4G63 DOHC normally aspirated engine, rated at 135hp and 125 ft-lbs of torque, use the F5M22 from the standard DOHC Talon. Note the 1G model has no roll stopper mounts on the bell housing, and requires mods to the mounts fitted to the 1G (six bolt) 4G63. Most 1G transmissions will have slow 1st/2nd synchros by now, which can be easily fixed with about $200 of parts and around 3 hours of labour to install them, while the transmission is out of the car. The 2G model has roll stopper brackets and improved 1st/2nd synchro design, and the 2G 4G63 does NOT have roll stopper mounting points on the block.

With a 4G63 DOHC turbo engine, rated at 195hp and 205 ft-lbs of torque, use the F5M33 from the Talon Turbo in preference to the non-turbo F5M22: its stronger, and the final drive is physically bigger. See above on 1G / 2G differences. You may also come across an F5M31 from the Expo / Summit wagon. This has a very low first gear (for getting a van started with a load), and is really not suitable for the turbo engine in a light car like the Colt. You also really want to find the 1G engine with the six bolt (vs 2G seven bolt) flywheel, as these are both stronger and don't have the design fault that is suspected of causing crankwalk.

Hydraulic Clutch

All 4G63/4G64 original transmissions have a hydraulic clutch setup, and if your car has a 4G15 engine (like most), it will have the cable operated clutch. Hence you have to retrofit an appropriate pedal and master cylinder arrangement. Use a Mirage / Colt 4-door sedan 1.8L set if you can find one (very rare), or else modify a Talon pedal assembly.

There's a blank area on the firewall where the hydralic clutch master is to be mounted. It's a relatively simple process to make a cardboard template from the new pedal assembly, take out the booster for the moment, and then drill the necessary holes in the firewall. Note that this can only be done neatly and accurately once the original engine is out. A 950mm (36") hydraulic line has to be bent and fitted to the firewall (see above), and curves round along the RHS chassis rail to the a flex hose that connects to the slave cylinder tube on the transmission. Not shown here are the tube brackets on the chassis rail, but they are easy to make. Be creative!

Turbo Specific Issues

Air Filter: If you intend to fit the non-turbo 4G63 and standard 4G63 air filter (see above picture), you need to modify the filter can slightly, and sort out whatever mounting brackets are needed.

Here's the Eclipse 4G63T and afternmarket HKS air cleaner fitted in about the right place, displacing the battery which is now sitting on an Eclipse/Talon battery tray adapted to fit into the Summit engine bay (displacing the screen washer reservoir), with new support brackets fabricated out of 25x4mm strip. Note that the fans have been removed for clearance of the turbo and intake pipes. Top radiator clips have been removed for repainting. Various wire harness connections are not made at present. The screen washer reservoir has to be reshaped to fit between the battery and the firewall, attaching to a simple bracket that bolts around the wiper motor. The radiator overflow bottle has to be slightly repositioned (rotated about 15 degrees) for clearance with the air cleaner.

Some electrical points noted from the donor 90 Eclipse 4G63T, compared to the 4G63:

Click here for much more detail on the ECU electrical stuff.

Radiator Fan and Air Conditioning Fan: Both these are normally mounted behind the radiator, and will have to be removed to provide clearance for the turbo exhaust manifold and turbo intake and outlet hoses. A low profile fan will have to be installed in front of the radiator. There are a variety of fans available e.g. from Permacool. See the images below.

Oil Cooler: Talon's had a simple cooler under the filter, but the 90-91 Eclipse has a rectangular remote unit that fits in front of the radiator, and is the better solution. Eight new brackets are required to fit the fans and oil cooler.

  1. A/C fan TR mount, from 18G steel with a 4mm threaded plate, requires 2 M6 bolts and holes in the top radiator frame bar.

  2. A/C fan BR mount, bent from 25x4mm strip, drill M8 hole in lower frame.

  3. Replaces the welded-in beam that supports the hood latch, and is bent from 25x4mm strip. Two M6 bolts on the hood latch, one in an unused M6 hole in the frame.

  4. L bracket to BL A/C fan mount.

  5. Square frame, bent from 18G steel, connecting hood support bar to main fan RHS.

  6. L bracket, from 25x4mm strip, connecting lower frame to main fan LHS.

  7. Oil cooler lower suspport, bent from 18G steel, using three unused M8 bolt holes in the frame, to two captive M8 nuts for the oil cooler.

  8. Oil cooler upper support, from 25x4mm strip to top radiator frame bar.


The Eclipse oil cooler tubes and hoses will fit, but you also have to cut a hole in the outer edge of the front panel to run the hoses. Here's a shot of the fans and oil cooler installed.

As mounted, the oil cooler collides with the bumper inner beam, so a 25mm section is cut out of the rear and two 100mm holes cut in the front of the beam. For airflow, two 100mm ABS tubes were fitted and blended into the bumper, and these route plenty of air directly to the oil cooler. The larger fan is controlled by the coolant temperature switch, and will suck air through about half the oil cooler too. The smaller fan is the air conditioning assist and is controlled by the A/C temperature switch.


Fitting the standard Talon / Eclipse Side mount unit requires the following:








The inside portion of the intercooler does not get much incoming airflow, so the indented areas of the body panel can be cut out. The plastic inner guard panel has to have slots cut into it so heated air can escape, but road dirt cannot easily enter. This is what is done in the Talon / Eclipse. It's not ideal, as the intercooler can heat saturate with extended hard use. For normal road use, it's satisfactory.


Power Steering fluid cooler: On the Talon / Eclipse, there's a simple 50cm loop of exposed metal pipe behind the front air dam. This usually gets pretty rusty after a while, so it might be a good idea to replace the unit with some simple bent tube. You can probably get away with ignoring this unless you are planning racing or rallying.



If you don't have power steering, replace the existing 4.25 turn rack with the 93-96 Colt 3.25 power rack, or if you can find one, the 2.75 turn rack from the 92 Colt. Otherwise consider adapting the Talon 2.75 turn rack. See my old website.

Replacing the standard gauge pod with a Talon gauge cluster.

The standard gauge pod in the Colt/ Summit has a speedo, temp and fuel gauge, plus a few idiot lights. Some models of the Mirage have a tachometer as well, but apparently these don't work very accurately with the pulse from the Talon circuits.

It's possible to modify the Talon / Eclipse gauge cluster to fit into the Colt. I started here with the pod from a 90 Eclipse with ABS, which was the donor of the 4G63. The shape of the pod case has to be radically changed by cutting of some case sections and rebuilding the case.

Left is the original gauge bezel panel with the rebuilt cluster underneath. Note how the idiot lights under the tacho and speedo have been deleted, and new indicators fitted adjacent to the oil pressure gauge. Unused indicators for Security and Overdrive are not replaced.

The original clear cover has been replaced with a curved section of lexan, screwed to the top and clipped along the bottom edge.




Oil pressure, Charge, Brake (e-brake on or low brake fluid), door ajar and seat belt indicators are unchanged. The Check Engine Light (CEL) replaces the now unused Antilock indicator. A 12v Yellow 5mm LED is added just above the CEL for the low radiator coolant sensor.

Finally, two blanked indicators (used for Economy and Power modes in automatic transmission models) are reused for the Seat Belt and Low Fuel warning.

Not surprisingly, there are some modifications required to the rear flex circuit. The major one is on the left side as shown here. The 16 pin loom connector (in the case) has been moved about 25mm closer to the speedo cable input, and a section cut out of the flex circuit, then the traces rejoined.

The outside edges of the tacho and speedo had to be clipped a few mm so the new case shape could be accomodated. These mods are covered by the bezel plate.

Rejoining the traces is not hard to do, but requires the correct tool. I used an 80W soldering iron with a spade tip, as it's necessary to tin the traces quickly to avoid melting the polycarbonate flex base. If you use a smaller iron, this is exactly what will happen as it takes longer to heat the copper. The previously unused Power/Economy indicator circuits have been activated and reused, and a couple of additional wires added for the low coolant LED.

Getting the new pod to fit in the Colt dash

The good news is that the orginal and Talon pod connectors are the same type, but have different numbers of connectors, and different positions. The bad news is that only 7 of the original wires are long enough, and the other 25 have to be variously lengthened up to about 20cm. So you need to get used to soldering wires together and covering the join with heat-shrink tubing.

In addition, there are no circuits (in the Summit at least) for the tacho (2), low radiator (1), oil pressure gauge (1) and turbo boost (2), so these have to be added.

The new pod is a bit larger than the original, and sits about 3cm closer to the driver in the plastic dash tub. A connector and speedo cable support assembly (see above) has to be fabricated out of easy to work 26g steel and part of the original plastic tub. What takes the time is getting the position right so that the pod will press on to the connectors and speedo cable. There's very little room to move behind the dash, so you may find its easier to take the dash out and then sort out the connector alignment . The easiest way to modify the gauge cluster tub area to make the pod fit is with a Dremel Tool with a router bit, and cut out a few sections that will permit the pod to be rotated 90 degrees once its in place.

Finally, because the new pod is closer to the driver, the black vinyl pod outer trim bezel has to be shortened by about 30mm. You can use a pair of tin snips and then trim with an exacto knife.


Converting the FWD Summit GTX to AWD.

Disclaimer: This part of the project is not a job for a novice, or someone without access to and experience with welding and sheet metal equipment. Not to mention the costs involved. You will also require an Engineer's Certificate for the modifications to comply with registration authorities and likely insurance companies.

I've located a C50PH AWD transmission (a W5M33 variant) from a '91 JDM Galant GSR. This is a mechanically switchable model that allows the selection of either FWD or AWD by changing two external plungers.

One, on the transmission, locks the center differential. The other, on the transfer case, allows it to freewheel. Both have to be set the same, and ideally require the car to be placed on a hoist to access the plungers. This also means that the C50PH can be used in FWD mode, making the car drivable, while the rear suspension work in being planned and fabricated.

The C50PH ratios are very similar to the W5M33 fitted to the Eclipse, but first is not as low, as the Galant GSR used 15" wheels. In the lightweight Summit, the performance will be comparable to the existing F5M22.

The C50PH also requires a 3.545 rear differential, so a 90-94 AWD Eclipse VISCO (a 93 AWD Expo can be used too) rear diff and Expo axles have been acquired. I needed these to service my own 93 AWD Expo, so the the parts are doubly useful. Make certain that you don't get a diff from an automatic AWD: the ratio is different and will DESTROY the viscous coupler in the manual transmission.

The primary issue with AWD conversion is how to fit the rear axles. Many people have looked at using the AWD Talon parts, including the crossmember, and decided that the level of body modification is too extreme, and they are correct. The 93 -96 Lancer GSR / EVO3 used a removable rear crossmember (plus a welded in crossmember between the towers) to support the rear diff and the lower trailing arms. The caliper adapter bracket shown here has to be adapted for the FWD Talon rear calipers.

Note that the main pivot bush is removed: this should be replaced with the solid Ralliart part which is much less compliant, and stops the wheels flapping around. The standard part can allow the wheel to bounce foreward up to 20mm, which can lead to 16" tires contacting the wheel arch.

The EVO trailing arm can be installed on a FWD car if an M24 bolt and suitable machined washers are used to replace the CV axle stubs.

The EVO3 trailing arms themselves provide the same suspension geometry as the original parts, but have a bearing carrier for the rear axles. The same bearing used in the 93-95 Expo rear trailing arms is used in the EVO3. It also turns out that the 93-95 Expo AWD (automatic or manual) have compatible axles. The 3.545 manual transmission diff is the one to use, or else use the 3.545 limited slip diff from the Talon / Eclipse. You will have to be a bit creative in mounting it correctly.

One of the major differences between the EVO3 and the Talon AWD diff is that EVO has a 3 bolt flange on the diff end, while the Talon has a different 3 bolt (1G) or either 4 bolt (later 1G, 2G) flange on the trailing arm stub axle. If the Talon LSD is used, the Expo flange stubs that fit into the diff are used.

So where do you get EVO3 trailing arms? The EVO3 was not sold in North America, and EVO4 parts are both expensive and don't really fit properly. I located my set of EVO3 trailing arms in the UK and shipped them over to Canada. The likely more expensive alternative is to engage a machine shop to modify the existing trailing arms. Not impossible, but would be in the order of $400 per side.

The EVO3 has 4x4.50" hubs that are different to the AWD Expo rear hubs, in that the hub flange is round, meaning they can be redrilled to 5x4.50". Because of their approximately rectangular design, Expo hubs can't be redrilled to 5x4.50". Talon / Eclipse front hubs will do the job, but require some minor machining to the oil seal area so that the rotor mount plane is in the same position. If this is not done, the hub flange plane is about 5 mm further out than standard, which will cause tire clearance problems on the wheel arch.

Front crossmember and Center Member

The transfer case hits the standard center member mounting fitting bulge (welded on part), something like as shown above. It is necessary to modify the bulge as shown, so the transfer case has clearance. There's also another hole for a bolt, with a captive nut required. This has a step, as shown. The GSR may have this step, or a new pressed section. In any case, a new center member has to be modified from an Expo wagon member. On the front end, a 3cm section has to be cut out and the parts welded back together. You need to be a little bit creative on making a mounting point for the center member hole that does not line up with the existing hole. Since it's not possible to weld a nut inside the frame box section, and you don't want to crush the box section, The preferred solution is to fit a tube and weld it in.

On the rear end, one existing bolt lines up, and you have again have to be creative to fabricate an adapter part that uses the second centermember hole, and the new bolt fitted to the cross-member.

Transmission Mounting block.

You can use the original Colt / Summit bracket assembly. On some W5M33 transmissions, the bracket is attatched with two M12 1.25 bolts on to a stepped part of the housing, others don't have a step, and use a spacer or a different bracket. The step is about 13mm high and can be removed with a hacksaw. Both holes are deep enough, but one now has to be tapped to the bottom.

This lines up the transmission correctly, but I found that the Colt rubber block is too flexible for the weight of the 4G63 and W5M33, and causes axle tramp on hard acceleration. The solution is to use the slightly larger and noticable stiffer block from the Talon, modified as follows.

Front axles

The existing unequal length FWD axles have to be replaced using the Talon or Expo AWD parts. The lengths are correct. The LHS gets replaced with a two piece unit with a hanger attatched to the bolts on the 4G63 block that support the air conditioning compressor.

Propeller Shaft

The C50PH has a small diameter 51mm prop shaft (at least at the front uni-joint), while my late Vista 4WD had a 65mm, and the Expo has the same size. The prop shaft will have to be remanufactured to the correct length and balanced. The Talon/Eclipse shaft can't be used directly as it's in three pieces and is too long anyway. It would however be a simple process to remanufacture it as a two piece unit.

Comparison of prop shaft diameters:

Expo and Vista wagon: two piece, front 2.6", rear 2.95". Expo has 94mm Lobro center CV.

Talon: 3 piece, all 2", with two 94mm Lobro CVs.

Galant GSR: two piece, both 2", with one 94mm Lobro CV.

EVO4: three piece, about 2.6" diameter, two uni-joints then two Lobro joints.

The Expo shaft is the correct type (center Lobro joint) but is a bit too long, and likely too large a diameter for clearance. The Talon tailshaft, (2") is more suitable, and can be remanufactured as necessary.

Tailshaft diameters are related to the expected rpm, and the length of the segment. The Talon uses a 2" diameter tube for clearance of the exhaust pipe, and hence needs the three pieces, as a two piece 2" shaft would twist too much. This is why the AWD wagons and EVO4 have two larger diameter tubes, with the larger diameter for the longer rear section.

The Expo LRV wagon, Talon and Colt/Summit have quite similar wheel bases.


2470 mm

Reference length.

Colt/Summit 2D

2440 mm

Needs to be shortened 30 mm

Colt/Summit 4D

2500 mm

Needs to be lengthened 30 mm.

Expo wagon

2520 mm

Shaft is 50 mm longer, same as difference in wheelbase.

Prop Shaft Center hanger, Lobro joint and the exhaust system heat shield.

It turns out that the Colt floor has the blank hanger support already fitted but unused, with the necessary bolts to attatch the hanger bearing not fitted. This bracket, outlined above, also strengthens the mounting for the handbrake lever. The heat shield will have to be modified as necessary. Expect the M6 bolts that secure it to be rusted in and to shear off, so you'll also need to drill and retap the holes.

Installation required:

drill 10mm (12mm?) holes and install bolts from inside the car. Likely needs extra load-spreading washers welded on as well.

Cut or adjust the heat shield to clear the hanger bearing. Heat shields are no longer an available part.

Note that the catalytic converter can be moved left several cm and rotated about 90 degrees to clear the new tail shaft, and still not stick down too far. The AWD Talon and Expo AWD van fit their converters this way.


Rear Axles and Differential

The Expo diff is slightly different to the Eclipse 3 and 4 bolt units (shown here), though the ratio is the same. Both have an inner CV that inserts directly into the diff, and a cup on the outer end that connects to the axle stub.

The Expo has an axle stub and a three bolt flange that fits into the diff, with an outer CV and axle stub that fits the rear hubs, in a similar fashion to the front knuckles. Think of it as the Eclipse, but with the axle set up reversed.

Front axle splines and rear axle splines are the same. The Expo rear wheel bearing is a 70x40 double row roller bearing, similar to the front wheel bearings, except that it has integral oil seals.

In the Lancer GSR, the diff casting is different to the Eclipse/Expo which have six / four bolts available to attatch a carrier hood. On the alloy rear cover, there are two bolts for a support arm that connects across the chassis rails with M18 bolts and insulator bushes.

The GSR on the other hand has a cradle that bolts on to the front top of the diff, and "wings" that bolt on to a welded in crossmember that connects the two chassis rails between the rear shock towers. On the rear, there are three bolts that secure a rear pointing cast iron U frame that connects to the removable rear crossmember that also supports the rear trailing arms.

There's also a difference if the diff is a viscous coupler LSD type. The RHS Talon axle and the Expo flange stub is longer and has a stepped spline. The smaller inner section fits into the internal viscous unit.

Fabricating the Removable Rear Crossmember.

GSR rear crossmembers are available used from Japan with some searching, but in the order of $1400 or more. Its quite a bit cheaper to fabricate something equivalent locally. This requires some detailed measurement, and welding by a licensed professional.

Step #1: Fabricate a jig frame. This is simple to do, and makes it easy to work on the assorted parts without crawling around under the car.

Step#2: Make a drawing of how the crossmember is to fit. Take the time to do this right! Measure twice, and draw the crossmember in full scale.

Step #3: Fabricate the first section of the crossmember that attaches to the rear mounting bolt holes, using mostly 2"x1/8 square tube.

Step #4: Fabricate the lower control arm mounting boxes. These have adjustments for camber.

Here's the jig built out of 1.5 " square tube that's used to fabricate the rear crossmember. The two M12 bolts in the red bar equate to the rear most mounting bolt holes in the Colt/Summit/Lancer chassis rails. These are easily accessible, while the front holes are partially covered by the existing welding-in rear crossmember box section, which eventually gets cut out. The yellow lines show the approximate shape of the rest of crossmember. The front bolt holes are approximately 4" in front of and 1/2" inboard of the rear holes.

The first stage of the new crossmember (the rear section) has been fabricated from 2"x2"x1/8" tube. Note the chamfer on the front center section which provides clearance for the diff rear cover cooling fins.

The lower control arm mounting point boxes have been roughed out and placed using a couple of M6 bolts. Once the boxes have been welded in, these bolts will be removed and the holes filled in.

The triangular section, left, is also boxed in mainly for strength, but also to stop the region filling with road dirt.






The lower control arms are adjustable for camber using an eccentric bolt (in fact the same as used in the original rear suspension). The adjuster ring shown retains the fixed washer on the bolt. The top of the mount will be boxed in.

The outside edge of the box (shown in yellow) may have a 1/2 " strip welded on to strengthen the panel and reduce the risk of any bending. It turns out that the plate is adequately strenthened when the 10G 1 " equipment shim on which the eccentric bolt centers itself is welded on.



Here's the mount boxed in. This is not structurally adequate at present to transfer the suspension loads into the crossmember. This will only happen once the foreward section of the crossmember is fabricated. Not visible here is the triangular gusset on the rear side of the mount on to the crossmember tube.






 Once the eccentric shims are welded in, the 12mm bolt hole has to be enlarged as shown left, to allow for the +/- camber adjustment.






OK, you are now committed to the conversion.

Here's the nearly completed stage #2 crossmember, with the V-LSD diff rear U-bracket. The rubber block mounts are still to be adjusted for position and welded on to the U-bracket.




Step #5: Remove the exhaust system and fuel tank and cut out the front half of the rear tub, including the existing rear crossmember. Fit the new first section of the crossmember, and fabicate the front mounting bolt sections so they fit the existing blank holes in the chassis box sections. Tack-weld the new pieces to the crossmember, take it out and box in the rest.


Step #6. Complete fabrication of the front "moustache" bar and rear "U-mount " diff frames.

Diff "moustache" bar plate only shown. The bar itself has yet to be postioned just above and to the rear of the side bolt.

Talon V-LSD Diff, AWD Expo / Summit wagon axle and EVO3 trailing arm test fitted. A common problem with the diff plate side bolts is they rust out. This is fixed with an M12-1.25mm helicoil.



Last Step: get the whole assembly powder painted.



Exhaust modifications

The transfer case and prop shaft fit in the center tunnel, and the space where the current catalytic converter and rear exhaust fits. The catalytic converter can be rotated about 45 degrees, but the rear pipe will have to be moved as necessary. The AWD Expo routes the pipe to the LHS of the car, while the AWD Talon runs the pipe along side the tail shaft.

The pipe to the rear muffler runs above the lower control arm, and at present is in the way of the LHS axle. There is space to reroute the pipe higher to clear the axle.

The standard rear pipe is 2 1/8" diameter. If I replace the existing (cracked) exhaust manifold with a set of ceramic coated headers, these generally have a 2 1/2" collector. Hence the new exhaust system should be a 2 1/2" system. This will improve the breathing, and give a few extra horsepower.

Rear Crossmember and Body Changes.

This is the MAJOR part of the work, requiring substantial cutting and welding.

Here's how the Lancer GSR / EVO3 does it. Because there is a removable crossmember that supports the lower control arms, the spare wheel tub and original rear suspension mount box section structure has to be restored. Consequently, there is a welded in box section that joins the chassis rails between the shock towers (see the grey channel with reddish tinge). This box section also provides the hangers for the cradle that supports the front of the diff, and the rear of the gas tank. These are the same as in the original car.

The rear of the diff is supported by a heavy cast iron (why this couldn't be an alloy structure is unknown. Vibration damping mass? It's still iron in the EVO4 !) U-bracket. The arms end in rubber blocks with brackets on to the removable crossmember. Note here that the GSR diff has three bolts for the U-bracket, while the Talon / Eclipse has only two holes.

The GSR rear crossmember itself is a stamped and welded assembly, with the center section displaced to the rear to provide clearance for the diff. Likewise, the lower control arm mounting points are offset towards the front of the crossmember, as shown in the picture below. Note also that the bottom of the crossmember is slightly higher than the bottom of the diff.

The crossmember is bolted on to the chassis rails with two M12 bolts per side, about 15cm apart. The bolt hole blanks are already present in the chassis rails, but unused.

Note here that the front diff carrier (the vertically mounted bush assembly, sometimes referred to as the "moustache bar") is just in front of the axle line, and bolts directly on to the welded in crossmember. This bar also mounts directly behind the fuel tank.

Not visible here are the two rear mounting points for the fuel tank. These are in the same place as the original RWD Colt / Summit welded on mounting points.

Modification Sequence

The aim is to keep the car mobile as much as possible while the conversion is being done.

Primary issue:

Solve the fuel tank isssue, and install the rerouted filler pipe. This is the primary issue that affects all of the subsequent operations. In the GSR, the route is almost the same as the Colt, but passes closer to the body. Note also that there is a point in the filler hose that is slightly lower than the filler neck on the tank.

Install the center hanger bearing mount bolts.

Drill two 12mm holes for the Expo (or Vista or Talon) hanger bearing. Needs cabin washers welding in too.

Install the AWD transmission switched to FWD mode, and reroute the exhaust system, taking into account the diameter and position of the tail shaft. Note the fuel tank issue is related.


Fabricate the new rear crossmember.

Fabricate the diff front hanger, as needed.

Update the lower control arms to boxed EVO spec. Get them refinished in black epoxy or powder paint.


OK, now we are committed to some serious cutting and welding ...Here's the unmodified rear tub.













Cut out the front 1/3 of the spare wheel tub area, allowing for the spare wheel.


Getting to this stage, starting with the fuel tank removed, took about two hours. The tub structure is very strong but is made of approx 22G metal. I used a reciprocating power saw.

Test fit the new crossmember. Note that the diff support and diff are not installed yet.

Cut out the region between the fuel tank support bolt panels (not seen from this side).

Diff rear U-channel support test fitted.

Test fit the Talon diff. Note the 1"x1/8" bar that simulates the gas tank rear seam. There's about 1cm clearance above the diff front mount top bolt.


Test fit the diff.

Front portion of the tub removed. Note the rear fuel tank supports are still in place. These get mostly removed and replaced later with a welded-in box section.

Side view of the test fitted diff.


Starting fabrication of the diff and gas tank crossmember, and plating in the tub.

At this point I realized that the Expo AWD rear sway bar was the right diameter and would fit, so the tub cut out was increased.

Removable crossmember with AWD Expo rear sway bar added. The rear tub had to be cut away further for clearance.

Rear view of the sway bar. The old rusted out gas tank has been test cut to set the prop shaft channel size and position.

Side view of the sway bar. Supports are just tacked in: full support to be added. Note the cleaned up and repainted under floor.

The weld in crossmember fully fabbed on the new tank which does not yet have the channel for the prop shaft. The notch is required for clearance for the top of the diff.

Note the 1"x1/8" strip mounting points with welded M10 bolts for the gas tank, and the pick up points for the diff front support. This support has about 1/2" clearance from the tank and fits under the tank seam. The pick up points are made from 14G exhaust tube, with a 3/8" plate welded in the bottom where the M12 bolts are fitted.

The 2.5" cross tube on the RHS is to provide an access path for the gas tank filler pipe. The remainder of the original crossmember box section has to be removed from the RHS for gas filler pipe clearance. On the LHS, just cut it off and plate the top over: or remove it as well.


Weld-in crossmember test fitted with M6 bolts, fabricate the front diff support and weld to the diff M12 pick up points. The front upper diff M12 point has been shortened by 17mm for clearance in the gas tank tunnel. Prop shaft is test fitted for alignment. Note the residual parts of the old gas tank support retained for the M6 points that secure the brake line.

Here's another shot. Note that the bottom of the diff is slightly below the axis of the lower control arm inner bush mounts. The crossmember will be welded on to the side chassis rails, and the on to the rear tub panel every inch or so. There's a gap above the crossmember to the trunk floor: the crossmember is boxed in, and will be filled with expanding polyurethane foam (marine grade) to seal the box section.


Another shot showing the three of the four M12 bolts that attatch the support to the diff. The red paint is Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, applied after some degreasing, sandblasting and wire brush work. This needs to be applied (2 coats) and left to cure for AT LEAST 72 hours. The gray is an engine enamel top coat that is similar to the original electro-paint gray. This requires at least two light coats and 24+ hours cure time.

Side view of main crossmember, axle flange and front diff support.

Compare the above with original GSR parts installed.


Test fit the Expo axle. Note the M6 bolts that set the alignment of the weld-in crossmember.


Rebuilding the trunk tub and allowing space for storing the spare tire requires maintaining clearance for the diff rear support and the sway bar. The fill panels are made of 16G steel. The corners have been rolled and butt welded. The tub depth over the rear suspension crossmember has been reduced to 30mm.

Here's the rear tub modifications completed and the diff /gas tank support crossmember welded in.


The completed rear suspension assembly.


The AWD Expo swaybar mounting fabrication.


Installing the Suspension Crossmember

Two holes are drilled in the chassis rail on each side, requiring M12x60mm bolts. You can also use the same bolt that's used on the trailing arms to secure the outer end of the upper and lower control arms.

A way to hold the nut in the chassis rail is required; The GSR/EVO uses a welded in assembly with floating nuts.

I used M12x60 1.5 pitch bolts and some old wheel nuts, modifed with a 1" washer and a strip of 3/4" welded on, as shown. A small amount of the trunk floor over the mounting bolts has been removed. The vertical strip can be held with vice grips in the trunk while the crossmember bolts are installed.

Minor Gotcha!

In my 93 coupe at least, inside the chassis rail near the rear mounting bolt hole, there's a welded-in nut that has to be removed, otherwise the nut assembly does not sit flat in the rail. A 1/2" self starting drill bit (not the std taper) does the job.




Modifying the Fuel Filler Tubes.

With the crossmember in place, the original fuel filler tube assembly doesn't fit. The good news is that is can be made to fit quite easily. About 32 mm of the center section of each tube is removed, and the bottom ends rotated about 80 degrees. The smaller tube has to be bent slightly. A new tube separator and lower mounting tab is fabricated from 16G steel and welded on.

Here's the cleaned and modified fuel filler assembly. The tank ends have a cross brace (not visible, see following pic) that separates the tubes by about 25mm. and a lower mounting tab (visible) that connects to an available M10 hole in the chassis rail.

After a rust repair (water gets into the lower bolt hole and rusts the double skin), the three bolt holes are redrilled to rotate the tube assembly so the lower end aligns better to the chassis rail and the rear end of the crossmember. Original holes are outlined in yellow.


The modified fuel filler tube assembly test installed. The fuel hoses (when fitted) loop round the top of the crossmember and down to the tank. The blue outline shows the approximate original position.


Fuel Tank Modifications.

The existing tank will have to modified as the prop shaft bisects it. You may find that the top of the existing tank is rusty, and a new tank (about $200) is required.

GSR/EVO's have a bisected system (see pic at left) as does the Expo AWD wagon, so I suspect that there is a dual pickup pipe on the pump, otherwise one side of the tank would never get emptied. A standard tank sender unit is slightly right of center and has to moved when the bisection is retrofitted.

Note here that the EVO3 tank has the pump on the LHS, while 4G coupes have the pump on the RHS.


The existing rear mounts for the fuel tank are attatched to the front of the spare wheel tub, and will get deleted when the tub is cut out. In the GSR, the replacement welded in crossmember that supports the front diff cradle also supports the gas tank.

Replacing the fuel pump

The standard 4G fuel pump is certainly adequate for a 4G63/4 and an unmodified 4G63T. Even so, when the tank is out you may want to replace the pump with the bigger 4G63 pump. Note that the 1G n/a and turbo models use the same pump.

In the Talon, the pump assembly plate is on the side of the tank, while in the 4G the plate is on the top of the tank. In both cases the pump is mounted vertically.

Its possible with some modifications to fit the taller 1G pump into the 4G tank. In summary...

Here's the gas tank with the roughed-in channel (made from 16G sheet) for the diff and prop shaft. Take your time and get it right when you cut a new tank. The sloping section (bottom center) provides clearance for the top of the diff.


There's one fuel pump only in the tank (and in the GSR and EVO), so we have to make sure that the pump does not cavitate, and that the gas is more or less equally distributed in the tank.

There will be some surge in the tank during cornering, acceleration and braking, but the simplest way seems to be to put a T-junction in the return line, and run a line that returns fuel to both halves of the tank. The theory is that this will keep the fuel levels about the same on each side of the tank, and the fuel gauge will read more or less correctly. This appears to be how the GSR / EVO does it.

Note on this new tank that the center mounted gauge sender hole has been covered because of the channel, and (not visible) the sender has been moved to the car LHS of the tank. The center cover is now used to run a return pipe to the LHS of the tank.

You can also make out the 6mm spacer under the fuel pump cover that enables the bigger Talon pump to be adapted.

Fitting the Propeller Shaft

The prop shaft connects the transfer case with the rear differential. In the EVO 3, this is a two piece unit with a central Lobro CV joint and hanger bearing. Since it's a two piece shaft the diameter is 2.75".  The center hanger bearing is attached to a simple box section as shown below.

I used the three piece 1G Talon / Eclipse prop shaft, which has one Lobro CV, a uni-joint and two hanger bearings. The front hanger bolts on to a simple 1"x3/16" strip that connects the fabricated floor points, and (not seen) curves up and over the exhaust pipe.


Here's the rear hanger bearing attatched to a fabricated bracket that fits on to the front gas tank bolts and the rear floor.

I was expecting to have to shorten the Talon prop shaft by about 2" but it turned out to be the right length for the position of the engine and rear diff.

There is a heat shield between the body shell and the exhaust system and prop shaft. This eventually rusts out and can be simply replaced with some 18G channels.

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